Can I plug a deep freezer into an extension cord?

GE strongly recommends that an extension cord not be used with a freezer due to the potential safety hazards under certain conditions.

Extension cords are only suited to run a small amount of energy to the appliances they connect with. Therefore, most household extension cords cannot handle the energy that large appliances such as refrigerators and microwaves consume and will overheat or even melt.

Refrigerators are considered noncontinuous duty loads. Loads that draw current for less than three hours at a time are allowed to be on the same circuit with other noncontinuous loads, as long as the total load does not exceed the circuit breaker rating.

Do Refrigerators Need Dedicated Circuits? Having the refrigerator on its own dedicated circuit is the recommended best practice for homeowners. Most refrigerators run between 3 to 6 amps, with that said, a refrigerator can spike at peak usage up to 15 amps. It’s best to take into consideration worst case scenarios.

A refrigerator and freezer shouldn’t be on the same circuit. Appliances like these use a lot of power intermittently, and putting too much strain on one circuit can cause frequent cooling issues, food waste, or even surges in your home.

The standard for most household circuits are rated either 15 amps or 20 amps. An important note to remember is that circuit breakers can only handle about 80% of their overall amperage. That means a 15-amp circuit breaker can handle around 12-amps and a 20-amp circuit breaker can handle about 16 amps.

Large consumers, especially kitchen appliances, such as microwaves, blenders and toasters, need a dedicated 20 amp circuit, to ensure a constant energy flow, which means they cannot share the circuit with other devices.

An electric range generally needs a dedicated 240/250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That means that you’ll need to install a 6/3 NM cable (or #6 THHN wire in a conduit) to feed the range. If it’s a gas range, however, it will only require only a 120/125-volt receptacle to power the range controls and vent hood.

Microwave ovens often demand dedicated circuitry, but this isn’t always a necessity. The National Electrical Code requires it for all fixed equipment, so a circuit must be set aside for any built-in oven. Small or older countertop models draw less power than modern full-size units.

If you are installing a wall oven and cooktop separately in your kitchen, thankfully, you don’t have to worry about wiring the two appliances individually. You can wire them onto the same circuit.

An obvious indication of an overloaded circuit is a breaker that keeps tripping and shutting off your power. Other signs of a circuit overload include: Lights that flicker or dim, especially when you switch on appliances or more lights. Buzzing noises from outlets or switches.

Refrigerators and Freezers Large appliances like refrigerators require a lot of power and frequently cycle on and off, which can easily overload a power strip. These devices should be plugged directly into a wall outlet dedicated solely to powering the appliance.

The extra current overheats smaller 16- and 18-gauge extension cords, which are intended for lamps and small appliances, and you should never use one for a refrigerator or freezer.

When it comes to electricity usage, an electric stove is a powerhouse. Consequently, you can’t just plug them into the standard 110-volt outlets that are most common in the United Statesmost stoves require a special 220-volt outlet instead.

Refrigerator or Freezer Running a refrigerator via a dedicated circuit is the recommended best practice for homeowners. Most refrigerators use between 3 and 6 amps, but peak draw can spike up to 15 amps. For this reason, refrigerators and freezers should be connected to a 15-20 amp dedicated 120-volt circuit.